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The coastal route.
From Denia to El Pilar de la Horadada the trip along the coast is a very pleasant car ride. Of course, our advice is to leave the motorway for more urgent journeys and take the
national highway which runs almost entirely along the sea. We will suggest several detours along the local highways which will enable our readers to discover the more interesting
corner. We are proposing an unrushed an interesting itinerary, but we feel that we should advise the traveller that if he visits this area in the summer, the entrance into the
main towns may, to the contrary, turn out to be very busy and overwhelming. Denia is the starting point, at the northern limit to the Costa Blanca. The city, presided over by
a castle which enjoys a splendid view, unfolds in a clearly urban ambience, though it still preserves intimate little corners in the fishing quarters of Baix la Marand Les Roques,
near the fortress. The Church of Santa Maria, of the 17C, is its most outstanding sight. The surrounding present several spots of enormous interest: the view from the Torre (Tower)
del Gerro, a watchtower, erected in the 17C, six kilometres from Denia heading in the direction of San Antonio, certainly deserves a visit. Both to the North as well as the South,
the Denia littoral is made up of fine beaches. In order to enjoy the Mediterranean countryside in one of its best versions, we suggest that the traveller go to the Cabo de San
Antonio: from here, with the Sierra de Montgo mountains in the background, to the Cabo de La Nao, the journey leads through cliffs, mountains, coves and along the sea. .
Also at the foot of the Montgo range and extending along the strip of coastline between the Cabo de San Antonio and San Martin Cave is Javea (nine kilometres from Denia). However,
the traveller will understand why this town has been traditionally chosen by visitors from all over Europe in order to enjoy a privileged retirement. The centre of town, located
inland, preserves among its popular constructions, a fortress-like church and a Gothic façade. At the other end of the Javea cove, today occupied by modern buildings,
is the rocky section of the coast which extends as far as Cabo de la Nao, with the little island of Portichol opposite. Natural caves exist within the cliffs, which can be visited
by using precarious ladders; the caves are known, because of their dangerous conditions, as pesqueras de la muerte (fishing grounds of death).
Heading inland in this region, the traveller will find, among the vineyards and fields, some fine examples of riu-rau, a popular type
of dwelling preceded by an arcaded front which has inspired many of the villas that have been constructed more recently. 15km from Javea
is Moraira, an old fishing port protected against pirates by an old castle and watch-tower. Further inland there is Benissa and the lovely
layout of its streets and houses. From there a pleasant road leads through La Fustera - an interesting tourist resort - and then to Calpe
(about 10km away) at the foot of the Peñon de Ifach, a rock jutting out from the sea and classified as a nature park today.
The Peñon (or rock), joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, is one of the most characteristic views of the Costa Blanca. On both sides, there are two small coves
with highly recommended beaches. From here, the coastal itinerary follows the national road. About four kilometres from Calpe is the Mascarat tunnel which crosses one of the
rockiest foothills of the Bernia Sierra. At the exit of the tunnel, we suggest that the traveller pause for a few moments to admire this section of the littoral where the sea
takes on a very profound shade of blue. Very close by, near Olla de Altea (a rural district which precedes the actual town of Altea), is, to the right, a detour which leads to
Altea la Vieja (Altea the Old) and Castell de Guadalest. This is one of the most beautiful excursions to be made in the province. But let us continue along the coast for the
moment. Altea is now very close and our advice is to leave the car in any of the streets which branch off from the main road and begin a long, leisurely walk through the part
of the recently built sector.
The old section is perched on top of a hill from which a splendid view can be had. The ascent, along steep slopes and stepped streets, reveals a broad horizon at every turn
and extends along the entire La Marina region: the silhouette of the Peñon de Ifach on one side and the Helade range on the other, frame the view of the sea, with the
gulls sweeping low over the town. Heading inland, the Bernia range runs perpendicular to the coast and very close the village. The orange orchards and almond tree fields spread
out towards the South, with the massive Puig Campana forming the backdrop. A small parish church is located at the highest point of the town, crowned with a tiled dome, constituting
one of the most representative views of Altea. If we return to the lower part of the town, the traveller will find a couple of establishments, which have been there forever,
where one can sample an excellent paella cooked over a wood fire or simply have a glass of local wine under the shade of an umbrella, with the shining sea below. A recently inaugurated
esplanade, flanked by outdoor bars and restaurants, is a delightful place to stop and relax. Eight kilometres from Altea, heading inland, is Polop, a small town surrounded by
orchards and pine groves, which is highly recommended for those who seek peace and quiet and cool summer nights. From the Via Crucis which presides over the town, one can obtain
a splendid view of the surrounding valleys, which owe their present appearance to the work of the Morisco farmers many years ago. A narrow local road will take us very soon to
Xirles, a village in which we can enjoy some excellent paella's under the shade of leafy old trees.
The fountains of Polop, Xirles and the nearby village of La Nucia have always made this area an ideal destination for brief excursions.
Very close to Polop on the way to the coast, there is La'Alfas del Pi with its splendid beach called Albir.Benidorm, the next stop on
our itinerary, can be reached via Altea or directly from Polop. Here the first visit should be to the small section of old streets which
was all that existed of today's busy tourist centre only three decades ago. The Balcony of the Mediterranean is an observation platform
which sits on the site of a no longer existing fortress and it affords a magnificent view of the Levante and Poniente beaches and the
nearby island of Benidorm.
The maritime esplanade which runs parallel to the Levante beach, the urban developments of tall skyscrapers and the incredible proliferation of shops, restaurants, outdoor cafes,
ice-cream parlours, discotheques and a general variety of entertainment establishments are a show in and by themselves for the traveller. The people who sit at the out-door tables
lining the main avenues in the summer are also a part of the landscape which characterises the major tourist resorts during the summer months. 10km from Benidorm is Villajoyosa,
where there is a considerable fishing fleet. Near the port, in the lower part of town, is a very pleasant esplanade shaded by palm trees and flanked by old façades which
have been painted with bright colours. The combinations of ochres, reds, yellows and aniline blues are repeated in the houses which appear to be suspended over the dry bed of
the river, another of the most characteristic sights of Villajoyosa. On the way inland very near Villajoyosa, there is Finestrat. In its vicinity Mount Puig Campana is an impressive
sight in the heart of Aitana Sierra.17km away is a turn-off on the right which leads to Aguas de Busot near which is an ancient spa, closed nowadays and surrounded by pines.
Eight kilometres further on is Busot, and ten more, on the slopes of Cabeco d'Or, are the Camllobre Caves which contain a big room filled
with fascinating calcareous formations. If we return to our starting point, the traveller can choose to continue in the direction of Alicante
along the inland route (15km) or head towards the beaches of El Campello, Muchavista and San Juan, which have been entirely urbanised.
The highway continues to La Albufereta, leaving the Cape of Las Huertas with its tiny intimate coves on the left.
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